Sunday 3 August 2014

VW T2c Kombi Front Beam Restoration

After inspecting my front beam I have found a large amount of surface rust on my front beam. The factory paint was long gone and the only protection came from the oozing grease around the beam greasing points and general crud.

So I had set aside some time to clean strip and treat the surface rust before applying paint. This was all done while the beam was fitted to the van. It would have been better to drop the front beam but decided to do place as there was no other reason to drop the front beam.

At the same time it was decided to remove and replace the anti roll bar as one of the clamps had come loose and was an advisory at the last MOT.

This procedure only details the renovation and painting of the front beam. I did not cover the renovation of the king & link pin or the suspension arms. These will be tackled in a later process. It also does not cover the routine greasing of the suspension as this will be also covered in a later procedure.

Tools / Materials Required:

Trolley Jack with suitable lifting mount
x2 Axle Stands
x4 Wheel chocks
19mm Socket & Breaker Bar for wheels
Jenolite Rust Killer
Zinc 182 ANti Rust Primer
Matt Black Paint
Selection of paint removal tools (wire bushes, sandpaper etc)
Electric drill or angle grinder with suitable paint removal tools
PPE - Safety Glasses & dust mask and gloves

Safety Note - Always ensure the vehicle is supported on suitable axle stands. PPE safety equipment is required. Only attempt if you are competent and at your own risk.

Lifting Procedure:

1. Park the van on a flat hard level surface.
2. Apply the hand brake
3. Chock the rear wheels on both both sides
4. Remove front hub caps. Using the 19mm socket & breaker bar loosen the front 5 wheel nuts. Only loosen do not fully remove.
5. Mount suitable lifting mount to trolley jack and locate the jack under the front beam in the center. Ensure trolley jack is positioned to lift the front evenly. I use the front lower beam just behind the steering swivel pin box fitted to the front beam.



6. Once the trolley jack has been suitable positioned and mounting block is located (mounting block shown here is a garage lifting jacking rubber block found on e-bay) gentle raise the vehicle until the front wheels are off the ground by more than 1-2 inches.
7. Position your axle stands so they are evenly spaced in from the outer edges of the beam. Ensure your axle stands do not clash with the two grease nipples mounted on the lower tube. Ensure that you are not completely under the van when lifted with just the jack.
8. Raise the axle stands and remember that as the van is lowered the arc of the trolley jack will mean the starting position is not always the final lowered position.
9. Low the jack gently and slowly constantly checking and adjusting the position of the axle stands to ensure good even contact with the lower tube.
10. Once the jack is fully lowered ensure that the van is securely on the axle stands. Give the van a good push and shake and confirm that the van is totally secure and stable.
11. Now remove the front wheels.
12. Place plastic bags over the front brake discs and outer suspension components to prevent debris and grease from getting on the brakes.

Front Beam Inspection:

1. Inspect the front beam outer plates in the wheel arches. Removing an excess grease from around the arms. Just clean at this stage using a solvent & rags to remove as much dirt & grease. Don't start using any abrasive products yet as the grease and dirt will just clog them up.



At this point I removed the Anti roll bar as I needed to replace the clamps and also paint the bar. 2. Now Inspect and clean the upper and lower torsion tubes. Again just using solvent and rags to remove as much dirt and grease as possible.





3. Once all parts are clean and grease free. Start removing as much paint and any remaining dirt. 

Caution - Do not excessively clean or use abrasive products near moving parts, seals and grease nipples. These will get damage and allow dirt to enter.







Using the abrasive tools try to remove as much surface rust as possible. Once removed clean up the surfaces with suitable solvent.






4. Now treat any rust with suitable rust killer. I use and recommend using Jenolite as its easy to paint on and drys quickly.
5. Once rust as been treated then prime the front beam. I use and recommend Zinc 182 anti-rust primer. Paint this on by brush as its better to avoid painting other components such as steering arms and cables.








6. Allow to dry (>6 hours or overnight) and repeat any areas missed.

7. Now paint the first coat of Black Paint. I choose a Matt Black paint by Tetrosyl. Apply first coat by brush.



I also painted the lower arm as I was replacing the anti-roll bat & clamps. The outer suspension and upper arm will be done at a later date.




8. Allow first coat to dry. Apply the second top coat.


Before
During
   After

Before
After

Before
   After


9. Once completed and paint has dried refit wheels and tighten as much as possible.
10. Place trolley jack under lifting point and raise until vehicle is off the axle stands.
11. Remove axle stands and gently lower vehicle until on the ground.
12. Remove jack and tighten wheel nuts using 19mm socket and breaker bar.
13. Refit hub caps.
14. Paint the areas left where the axle stands where located.

Once completed it is advisable to grease the front suspension. See separate procedure.


Kombi Wheel Arch Rust Repair

Common rust trap on T2 Bays. Water from the road tire rotation constantly spraying onto the underside of the front seats. Any damage or stop chips in the under seal leads to corrosion.

Rust noticed around the drivers side seat runners and seat belt mount.

 
Only slight surface rust but somethings going on underneath.

Closer inspection seems that under seal has had quite a but of wear. Instead of just covering it up I thought I would take a closer look under the seal.

Warning - Removal of under seal is BEST done totally dry - Do not foolishly attempt (as I did first time) to remove with any form of solvent, petrol etc. It won't won't work and makes a horrible mess.




After a lot of scraping of under seal I managed to start to revel the original paintwork. There is a strange 3 layer plate around the seat runner. It was sealed with just silicone sealant and the water had got behind.

After a lot more scraping and then using a multiple of wire brushes and having found a brillo pad style disc had the best effect.


Back to bare metal. Treated with Jenolite rust killer. Then primed with Zinc 182 Primer.


Once Primed applied 2 coats of Hammerite white.


Then applied many thick coats of under seal.


Check and renewed the passenger side wheel arch. No sign of rust on the passenger side so just over coated the under seal.